Better yet, that IS a 4-speed manual shifter sticking out of the console, a rather rare option for 1979. The low mileage claim is easy to believe when you sink into the supportive bucket seats, which are still firm and comfortable, not tired and saggy. That’s the original black bucket seat interior inside this Firebird and it’s shockingly well-preserved. And this is one of those rare F-bodies where the windows don’t rattle in the doors when you slam it. There’s also a Hurst emblem out back that isn’t just for show and because it lived where the sun is hot, the windows are tinted, which makes it look especially sinister. They did include the requisite Pontiac emblem on the nose, as well as a small “PONTIAC” decal on the bumper, Firebird logos on the sail panels, and one more on the rear spoiler, so it does have a performance look. On this car, a few of the bright trim pieces were also powdercoated black to give it a slick monochromatic look, and it’ll take an expert to spot the changes because it looks so right. The Firebird’s clean lines are still aggressive and appealing, and the 1979 facelift made it look even longer and lower than before. No questionable upgrades, no fake decals on the hood, just some laser-straight black bodywork with a fantastic shine that really stands out in a crowd-I doubt they looked this good on the showroom floor. Starlight Black is this car’s original color and while it shows just 31,394 original miles, it has been treated to a high-quality repaint in the not-too-distant past. This is a lifetime southern car, coming to us from Louisiana, and one look at the bodywork and undercarriage is all the proof you need that it has never, ever been rusty or wrecked. As a result, clean, straight, unmodified cars can be a challenge to find, which is why we were so excited to find this slick black Firebird. What those guys are finding, however, is that most of these cars were used up, raced, abused, wrecked, and just plain neglected by owners who didn’t pay much attention to their future collectability. It’s the same thing that drives the rest of the hobby. Trans Ams, Z/28 Camaros, and cars like this 1979 Firebird all talk to a generation of guys who grew up watching V8 performance on TV and in movies, and these are the cars that take them back. Go ahead and make the Burt Reynolds jokes, but late-70s F-bodies are red hot right now. The Glass in the birds of the aftermarket seems cheap, as one of them fell apart on me a couple years ago, but the casting seems exactly the same.No questionable upgrades, no fake decals on the hood, just some laser-straight black bodywork with a fantastic shine that really stands out in a crowd-I doubt they looked this good on the showroom floor. One thing - So how can tell the difference between an Original Bird or Emblem and an Aftermarket? I have both, and I really cant see the difference. The finished product has a lot more gloss "glassy" look. The Clear spread very easily so it went really fast, and you dont notice mistakes like with the paint. After the paint dryed I just redid the emblem with the clear. It came in a bottle, dont have the exact name right now. As said before, you can neatly scrape it off after it drys to reveal the Chrome. If you try to put a full drop in the corners it will overflow. Put a nice drop in the center and when the tool is fairly dry, move it into the corners. Let the paint drip off the tool you are using back into the bottle, leaving very little paint on the tool, then set it into the channel of the emblem and let it flow. It was very easy to control and the fine point got into the corners very well.īe Patient, it only takes about 15 minutes to do a whole bird, if you rush it you can be done in 5 minutes. I used the Testors White on the Pontiac Lettering, and Testors Black & Dark Red for the Birds. Thanks to this thread, I just did a couple of things last night. I'll tell you the $45 i spent on the bench grinder is probably the best money i have ever spent on a tool. Tom, i worked a cracked and yellowing emblem on my buffing wheel.You can buff the cracks out if they are shallow enough.You need to do this slowly and remeber the heat the wheel creates will burn the clear if you stay on it too long.Do a little,let it cool.Repeat the process until you get it where you want it to be. Thanks for the compliments.First you clean and polish the chrome.I used the buffing wheel and compound.This emblem was pretty bare so i cleaned out any remaining paint.I used testors red and testors black.The metal finish of the inlay has textured finish to it.This is what gives the red inlays their "sparkle or metallic paint" look, not a metallic paint.The more coats of red you apply,the deeper/darker the colour.The black will cover in two coats but three would not hurt.Then you can apply the clear.Do it in layers as it will not cure is you try an fill it all at once.Do not apply the clear until the colours are completely dry.
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